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Touaille/ wimple(engl.)/gimpel(germ.)/guimple(of) Fine linen or wool veil, originated in Anglo-Saxon territories. It was worn around the neck, fastened with pins at the back of neck. This fastening then was hidden under the veil worn over it. It survived in the habits of certain female monastic orders.
Tights see chausses
tippet or lappet - (white piece of linen or contrasting material or fur, attached to the upper arm and wore down from a few inches to several feet, to trail on the floor. It was purely decorative).
TOURET: woman's veil covering forehead - 13th-15th centuries.
TRESSOIR: golden plait of silk embroidered with metal and gems worn by 13th century women
WIMPLE: women's head and neck covering, 12-15th centuries
wimple, caul or fret
chemise: the layer of dress closest to the wearer's skin, its cut is unknown, but it was apparently made of undyed linen.
cote: the generic French term for the type of gown that was worn just over the chemise, the first layer of clothing that actually showed. In English, it is known as a kirtle. Both terms appear to have been in use much longer than the lifetime of any one fashion.
cotehardie: the term most costume historians use to name the most visible fashion layer during the 14th century, both for women and (confusingly) also men. Spellings vary.
décolletage: Necklines
godet: officially, it's a gore if it has four sides, a godet if it has three.
gonella: the Italian name for a cotehardie, it also appears to have seen extended use.
kirtle: the English name for a cote.
pavane: a courtly type of dance that is more of a graceful parade, the pavane step is often arced to allow women to gracefully push their very long skirts out of their way as they step.
sideless surcote: the term for a type of women's surcote with armholes that fall to the waist or hip, often with a fur or fur-lined top.
sorquenie: the term used for a type of cote that was fitted under the bust.
tippets: hanging panels of fabric attached to the sleeves of a lady's cotehardie.
Barbe
Also barbette; part of a woman's headress, consisting of white linen passed over or under the chin, fastened on top of the head.
Baudkins (of silk)
Rich cloth, brocade. Use restricted by the sumptuary laws.
Bawdekins
Silk, brocade.
Cabochon (from French caboche, knob). A stone cut with a smooth, rounded surface, with no facets and highly polished. Usually it is cut from an opaque or translucent stone (but some emeralds, amethysts and garnets have been so cut), or a stone with a special optical effect (opal, moonstone). The style of cut was used in Antiquity and continued until the 15th century when it began to be displaced by faceting. Cabochons are of various shapes, usually circular or oval, but sometimes rectangular or triangular. Carbuncle (almandine) is among the stones that are most often cut as cabochon. The stone so cut is said to be cut en cabochon.
Camise (camisia, lat.)- Undergarment worn directly on the body.
CAUL: jeweled net worn as women's head-covering, 14th-15th centuries.
Caul
Also crepine or crespin. A close–fitting cap or net for the hair worn by women; often richly ornamented.
CHASUBLE: circular cape with aperture for head.
chausses/tights(engl.)/hose(mhg.)/caliga(lat.) In the fourteenth century the tights were composed of two separate legs. They could be either fastened to the lower part of the pourpoint with cords, or were tucked under the braies.
Chignon
COPE: hooded cloak, sometimes with sleeves, worn for protection against rain.
CORSET: in medieval times, two definitions: 1) long or short surcoat with or without sleeves worn by men in the 12th-15th centuries; 2) a woman's furlined winter gown lacing in front, worn between 14th and 16th centuries.
Cotehardie/coathardie (engl.) Tight-fitting garment for both male and female usage. For women it was cut with slimming seams from the shoulders to the hips, and always reached the ground. Its sleeves could be varied (long, short, tight or loose). The cotehardie had two characteristic pocket slits in front. The variation worn by men was very close fitting in waist.
Cotte/kirtle (eng.) Originally a coat armour in the Crusades from the twelfth century, worn to protect armour against the heat. Later it became a long dress for travellers, and from it the undergarment of the thirteenth century had developed. The everyday undergarment of the thirteenth century. Its tight-fitting, long sleeves were always cut in one with the body part. In the fourteenth century the lower part of the sleeves was supported with buttons. In the fourteenth century it was still used as an "unfashionable" garment of old, university people, officers, etc.
cote-hardie
Coudières/ tippets (engl.) The long, hanging parts of the sleeves of cotehardie.
Couvrechefs A couvrechef was a veil that was draped around the head then hung looseor tucked into the neckband of a gown. The Anglo-Saxon term for a couvrechef was headrail. Couvrechefs were discarded by the upper classes in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries but remained everyday wear for the lower classes.
Crespine, metal band joining together the cages either side of the head which held the hair
crespinettes, coronet with crespinettes. Or a fillet with cylinder cauls -
Dorelet
FILLET: band tied round the head.
fitchets - slits cut into a garment to allow acccess to layers below such as for the purse
GANACHE: loose outer garment
GORGET: linen neck-covering
houppelande - gown made in a bell shape with a hole for the neck, and of varying lengths
kirtle - a long tight fitting under tunic with tight sleeves
liripipe - long pipe of material extending from the hood
Plackard The plastron or upper front part of a surcot ouvert, often furred or made entirely of fur.
Sendal (or Cendal)
A fine, shimmery silk, often decorated with appliques.
Supertunic supertunica (English), tunic (English), guyt (English) gunna (German), surcot (French), corsets ront (French), rotendellas (French) and a ghita (English)
Surcotte/surcoat In the thirteenth century the universal upper garment. In the fourteenth century, however, the term was used mainly in connection with female fashion.
Surcot ouvert Developed in the middle of the fourteenth century from the universal upper garment of the previous century, the surcotte, it became the part of highly born ladies' wardrobes. It was cut with deep décolletage and armholes, and a separately cut loose and long skirt was seamed into the bodice part, which was named plackard.
A
agrafe large brooch for robe or cloak fastening
aiglets 15th to mid 17th century metal tips on the ends of laces.
aiguillettes see aiglets
alb long, white robe worn by Christian priests.
almoner corded purse of silk or leather attached to a girdle or belt used to keep alms
amice white scarf worn on the shoulders of priests
almuce large, cloth cape with attached hood and lined with fur
anademe fillet or garland of flowers or leaves for the head
anlace short sword or dagger
apron Worn by artisans or workers to protect clothing for men and women. Usually rectangular linen sewn onto a waistband
atour French name used in England for tall, conical headware made on a silver wire frame. As a foundation they used a bonnet or wimple. Usually made with gems and pearls and very fragile, for single use. see tire
aulmoniere see almoner
aumer see almoner
aumener see almoner
aumuse a kind of hood with shoulder coverings split at the front.
B
back, bak 14th century term loosely for any outer garment.
bagpipe sleeve close fitted at the armhole, bagpipe shaped at the elbow and buttoned at the wrist. Popular on the houpelande. Also called poky sleeve
balandrana 12th & 13th century wide travelling cloak.
baldric 13th to 15th century wide belt to suspend sword, dagger, pouch etc, often decorated and worn at hips or over shoulder. Often with bells.
barbe 14th-16th century pleated linen veil and wimple often worn by widows and nuns
barbette fine linen band encircling the head- wide at the crown and thin under the chin like a strap.
barmecloth 14th to 17th century leather apron
barmefell 14th to 17th century leather apron
barmeskin 14th to 17th century leather apron
baselard see anelace
basen see bazan
bauson skin skin of a badger
baudric see baldric
bawdric see baldric
beaver, beaver hat 14th century onwards. beaver skin hat
bell late 13th to early 15th century travelling cloak. Circular, sometimes hooded, sometimes with side vents.
bend 1. 1000 to end 15th century. Fillet or circular ornament worn on head.
bend 2. synonym for stripe.
birlet 15th century circular padded roll as worn with chaperons by men.
bliaud see bliaut
bliaunt see bliaut
bliaut 12th century. Loose tunic worn by men and women with very wide sleeves.
bliaus see bliant
bosses late 13th to end of 14th century decorative cauls of network or linen covering thick plaits of hair, generally artifically enlarged and arranged on each side of the head above the temples. Worn with a veil. Also templers
bourrelet see birlet
braccae see braes
bracer yeoman's glove with long, ornamented leather top.
brael 14th century breech girdle
braes are linen coverings for the loins, and at times may have been long enough to reach down to the ankles. Breeches (Fr braies, Lat braccae, O.E. brec, brech, bryk, )
braies see braes
brayette end of 14th century narrow braie-girdle buckled in front.
breeches 13th century- long under trousers with a drawstring waist
brech see braes
brodekin see buskins
brodkin see buskins
brotiken see buskins
bruch 12th C. kind of undergarment worn by men. possibly like breeches.
bryk see braes
buskins 14th to late 17th century boot reaching mid-calf or to the knee favoured by travellers & country people. Womens buskins may be made of velvet, satin or Spanish leather for travelling.
burgundian gown popular late 14th to 15th century style of gown with a high waist, full skirt, fitted sleeves and deep V neckline, usually fur trimmed
burlet see birlet
butterfly headdress 2nd half 15th century. Headdress with wire frame supporting wire for the veil fixed to a small fez-shaped cap worn on the back of the head.
buttons from at least the 13th century onwards in England
buttoner 14th century close row of ornamental buttons down the front of ahouppelande
bycocket hat turned up behind and down in front similar to the chapeau
C
caban 14th & 15th century loose cloak with armholes.
cap from medieval times on.
capa hooded robe or mantle
cape known as a cope from 12th to 14th century.
cappa clausa closed cloak worn by a lecturer with slits for the hands
capuchon a hood pre-14th century or cowl
camise see chemise
camisia medieval shirt or smock for both sexes.
caul head covering worn by women, incorporating a decorated hair net of silk thread or goldsmithry, sometimes lined with silk. Later known as the crespine which developed into the reticulated headdress. Also a fret.
ceint, seint 14th & 15th century girdle.
chaisel
chaperon 14th century hood arranged in a variety of styles, often with a long liripipeor tippet which may be worn thrown over the shoulder. Worn by men and women.
Chaplet - a type of head ornament in the form of a garland, wreath, or ornamented band, to be worn around the head. Chaplets were made of metal with repoussé decoration or embellished with gemstones and pearls
chaplet 1. originally a band of flowers for the head.
chaplet 2. 14th, 15th & early 16th century circlet set with gems worn by both sexes on festive occasions.
chaplet 3. late 14th & 15th century wreath of twisted silk or satin made of an ornamental padded roll for any occasion.
chausses 13th & 14th century tight covering for the legs, each seperate and tied to a belt or undergarment. Can be made of leather or cloth. Also hose, chaussembles.
cheisil see chaisel
chemise from early medieval to end of 19th century. Undergarment usually of fine linen. The chemise is sometimes known as a smock for a woman and a shirt for a man. Often very voluminous, knee-length usually without trimming. Oblong in shape- shaped like a long, loose tunic. Sleeves vary from long, short and none.
ciclaton, cinglaton, syglaton see cyclas
cingle a belt or girdle
cingulum belt or cord worn at the waist
circlet 14th century decorative circle of metal or goldsmithery worn on the head
circular cloak a cloak, circular in shape
cloak Anglo-Saxon onwards. Loose outer garment of varying length falling from the neck over the shoulders. Many different names and styles. The 14th century ladies cloak is known as the mantle
cloche end of 13th century travelling cloak
clogs medieval onwards. Wooden-soles overshoes to raise the wearer above the dirt.
Known as pattens and followed the shape of the fashionable shoe.
cloke-tunic
clouts - a type of cloak
clouts - female form of braes
coat of arms a cloak, three-quarters of a circle, decorated with heraldic devices. Fastened on the right shoulder.
cockers 14th to 16th century knee high rough boot worn by country folk.
cod medieval term for a bag.
codpiece 15th & 16th century front flap at the fork of long hose worn by men like a pocket.
cognisance heraldric badge of a noble family
coif end of 12 to mid 15th century close-fitting plain linen cap covering the ears and tied under the chin.
colobium plain tunic which preceeded the dalmatic
cope medieval voluminous circular cloak often with a hood, although sometimes without when used for ceremonial purposes.with a hood. Front opening. Pictured (left) is a cope from 1280_1300 made of red silk twill embroidered with gold couching and embroidery.
cork 15th century shoe identical to the patten with a sole of cork.
coronet 14th century small, open crown of nobility, less decorative than royalty.
corse 1. 14th & 15th century close-fitting sleeveless bodice, often very decorative undergarment laced to shape the body, constraining the sides, raising the breasts, keeping the waist small and round.
corse 2. see baldric
corset see corse
cote from 13th century. Everyday loose tunic being the main garment of both sexes. A woman's gown- long, close-fitting with long sleeves which is often referred to as agown, kirtle or kyrtle.
cote-hardie 14th to mid 15th century (men) tight-fitting, knee length tunic buttoned down the front to a low waist. After 1350 shorter sleeves were introduced and the tippet became popular. Tippets and skirts were often dagged and a belt was always worn at hip level.
cote-hardie The garment popularly called the "cotehardie" is more accurately called the "kyrtle" which was the 14th to mid 15th century (women) long, tight-fitting gown with long sleeves. Very tight around the waist and requiring assistance to dress. Cut low off the shoulders and low neckline, with or without buttons down the front. Fitchetsin the skirt were common.
cotte Similar to the T shaped tunic dalmatic, but the angled sleeve joins are masked with embroidered bands. When long, it is called the robe.
cotte also cote
counter-fillet late 14th & 15th century fillet securing the veil.
courtepye 14th & 15th century upper garment like a surcote.
couvrechef medieval to 16th century. a fine veil in a light colour, sometimes edged in gold or richly embroidered. 13th century royalty or nobles were of silk or cloth of gold.
cowl the shoulder cape part of a hood
crackows 1. long-pointed toes on hose, sometimes fastened with chains to the garters
crackows 2. English word used to describe poulains.
crespine 16th century crimped or pleated frill. Incorrectly known as headwear consisting of two jewelled cauls or nets of stiff gold wire, semi cylindrical in shape and usually with a securing circlet and veil.
crespinette see crespine
cuf, cuff, cuffie 14th century cap or coif.
cucufa end of 13th century close-fitting plain linen cap covering the ears and tied under the chin
cuker 15th century part of the horned headdress to do with horns.
cyclas- I have three definations and I am unsure which is the more correct. All of these have been found in books of a high standard of information. The definitions are as follows-
cyclas 1. 12th century "A" shaped tunic with keyhole
neckline and split up the front front the bottom hem at the front. Also gardcorp,surcote, syglaton.
cyclas 2. 13th century male and female rich gown worn for ceremonial occasions.
cyclas 3. 14th century outermost garment, tightly fitted, laced at the sides and shorter in front. Worn over a gambeson
D
dagges popular from 1380 to 1440 ornamental cutting of edges of garments. Continued into 14th and to the end of the 15th century.
daggues see dagges.
dalk to end of 15th century. Usually a pin but also a brooch, clasp or buckle.
dalmatica full-length tunic with long wide sleeves. Roughly T shaped. Pictured (left) is the 1300's Dalmatic described as Royal Purple. It has heavily embroidered neck, hem and sleeves
diadem large circle of gold or other precious metal worn like a crown.
dorelet medieval onwards hair-net embroidered with jewels.
dorlet see dorelet
doublet 14th century to 1670. Tight-fitting, short jacket worn next to the shirt, often made of two thicknesses and padded within.
E
english work (anglicum opus) medieval very fine Anglo-Saxon embroidery from the 7th to 10th century.
escarcelle rectangular pouch often worn at the back of the girdle, often with themiseriecord It was secured with a swivel T piece through a slot.
esclavine a pilgrim's mantle or cloak
estaches 14th century. French word for the strings to attach the hose. see points
F
feather pelts 14th to 17th century skins of various birds with feathers attached used for trimming garments in place of fur.
felet see fillet
felt mid 15th century on. Used alone, felt indicated a hat made of felt.
fent see fischet
fibula type of brooch to fasten garments
filet see fillet
fillet 13th & 14th century narrow band to tie about the hair of the head made of stiffened linen and worn with a barbette or frett or both. In the 18th century the term was used to mean a hairnet which covered the whole head.
fischet see fitchet
fitchet 13th to mid 16th century vertical slits in the cotehardie through which the hands were passed either for lifting the gown whilst walking or to allow access to thegown underneath and the pouch suspended from the girdle or belt.
folly bells 14th and 15th century form of decoration of small bells suspended by chains from a girdle or shoulder band.
foot-mantle large cloak-like garment worn by women when riding
fouriaux 1st half of 12th century. Silk hair-dressing sheaths enclosing the two long plaits of ladies of high rank.
fret, frette 13th to early 16th century trellis-work coif or skull cap made either of goldsmithry or material.
fringe medieval onwards used largely for ecclesiastical garments but rare in clothing before 15th century.
frounce 14th century term for flounce
G
galoche 14th century onwards generic term for the protective overshoe.
galage see galoche
galoshes see galoche
galoss see galoche
gambeson see acketon
gardcorp mid 13th to 14th century garment similar to a cyclas with a slit in the upper sleeve for the arm to go through, and with gathered armbands. Often with a hood and worn with hanging sleeves, the arms passing through a vertical slit in the upper arm.
garde-corps see gardcorp
garnache 13th to mid 14th century male tunic- loose with short cape-like sleeves cut in one with the body and falling over the shoulders. Sometimes called a tabard.
garter medieval onwards- tie or band to keep stocking in place on the leg, avove or below the knee. Usually tied. Buckled from 1550s.
ghita 14th C woman's garment of unknown type
gimp see wimple
gipon similar to the acketon, but worn by itself, later becoming the pourpoint.
gipser, gipciere 14th & 15th century purse or pouch.
girdle medieval onwards long cord, band or belt encircling the waist or hips worn in a variety of styles in differing time periods. During Henry II, Richard I and John, worn at the waistline with material blousing over it. During the first half of the 13thC, the garment was un-bloused and the girdle sat flat. After 1250, sloping downwards to a point in the front.
gite 14th & 15th century gown (but what was it like, hmm?)
gloves from 12th century, but rare before 13th. The function and design of the glove is primarily unchanged.
goffered veil 19th century term for a headdress worn 1350-1420. see nebula headdress
gole 14th century name for the cape portion of the hood or chaperon.
gonel 14th century name for a gown
gores 14th century method of sewing- triangular pieces inserted in lower seams to increase the fullness of a gown or inserted at underarm seam in early garments to permit freedom of movement.
gorget 12th & 13th century neck covering. see wimple
gowce 14th & 15th century term for gussett
gown medieval to 16th century. Term for long garment of both men and women. Varying styles and designs through this period.
gussets triangular pieces added to the underarms. Also see gores
guimpe see wimple
gwimple see wimple
gypsire leather pouch or wallet worn on a thin strap over the shoulder
H
habit medieval onwards. Originally the distinctive dress of a particular rank or profession- particularly of religious orders.
hair sherte irritating undershirt worn as pennance. could be goatskin worn with the hair inwards or linen or wool woven coarsely with twigs and debris in the fabric.
handkerchief 14th century onwards. The same as today.
hanging sleeves 1400 to 1630 wide, long tubular sleeves with a slit cut through which the arm emerges. Used on a wide variety of garments.
harlot late 14th century expression for hose and breeches combined to resemble modern tights. Often considered indecent when first introduced.
harlotte see harlot
hauketon see acketon
hauqueton padded cotton jacket frequently worn by men at arms.
hawk-glove 13th century onwards. Short glove worn on teh left hand as protectionas the hawk was being carried on the wrist.
herigaut 1375 - early 14th century gown-like garment with three quarter to full sleeves, generally with the sleeves hanging. see garde-corps (see picture at right)
herlot see harlot
heuk 14th & 15th century cloak or outer garment like a cyclas.
When longer, reaching the knees, it was called the tabard.
heuke see heuk
heuse, huseau, housel, houseau 1240s to late 15th century long riding boot reaching to mid-thigh and fitted with buttons, buckles or straps on the outer leg.
hoggers garters
hoo headcovering, cap
hood medieval onwards. Varying styles over the medieval period. 14th century featured the liripipe.
hooks and eyes used from 14th century
hoqueton see hauqueton
hose medieval onwards tight covering for the legs, often woolen, usually of a woven material. Usually seperated. Joined together as a pair of tights in the 15th century.
houppelande end of 14th and through 15th century loose outer gown worn by men and women, either shaped or cut on a single slanting line from armhole to hem. Fitted at shoulders. Early forms had high bottle-necked collars. Sleeves were often the bagpipe sleeve or had huge dagged sleeves. There are three distinct styles.
howve 14th century name for a hood worn by men and women.
houve see howve
I
J
jags, jagging see dagges
jupe 1290 to 1400 see gipon
jupon see gipon
K
kemes see chemise
kemise see chemise
kemse see chemise
kendal cloth made in Westmorland as early as 1389
kerchief medieval to end of 16th century. A draped head covering.
kercher see kerchief
kirtle see kyrtle
knightly girdle mid 14th to 1420 belt worn by male and female alike made of metal clasps joined together and fastened in front by an ornamental buckle or clasp. Worn on the hips, not the waist, over the gipon or cote-hardie but only by nobility.
knop Medieval button or tassel, usually decorative.
kyrtle 9th to 15th C. The garment popularly called the "cotehardie" is more accurately called the "kyrtle" which was the 14th to mid 15th century (women) long, tight-fitting gown with long sleeves. Very tight around the waist and requiring assistance to dress. Cut low off the shoulders and low neckline, with or without buttons down the front.Fitchets in the skirt were common.
L
lace woven or plaited braid used for trimming or closing garments. Not the lace as we know it today.
latchet medieval onwards. fastening strap on a clog or shoe.
liripipe 1350 to end of 15th century. Long trailing tippet from the back of a hood orchaperon.
M
mahoitres from 1394. French term for shoulder padding in men's gowns and jackets.
mantelet medieval name for a short mantle or cloak.
mantle 12th century onwards. A circular, sleeveless cloak, long and loose often fastened with a cord linking two clasps at the neck. A mantle does not have a hood. During the 14th century, mens mantle's fastened on the right shoulder with 3 buttons, while the ladies remained fastened at the front, usually with cord.
mantil see mantle
mantlet see mantelet
maunche long heraldic sleeve worn by both men and women, esp in the 14th century
melote medieval. Originally a sheepskin garment, later a cloak of any coarse fur. Usually worn by monks or friars at their work.
misericorde knight's dagger usually worn on the right hip
morse the fastening or clasp of a cope
mummer's hood hood with two elongates points off the side of the head. Worn by Mummers or Fools.
N
napron 14th and early 15th century term for apron from the word "anapron"
nebule see nebula headdress
nebula headdress 19th century name for the ruffled veil worn 1350 to 1420. Made of linen and draped over the head. The fabris was woven in such a manner that the edges were wider than the actual cloth giving a frilled appearance. Named as the three rows of ruffles of the veil resemble the nebules of heraldry.
neck-chain medieval to mid 17th century. Gold or gilded brass chain usually worn by men or travellers who could cut off a link in leiu of money.
nifels 2nd half of 15th century name for a woman's veil.
nouch 13th to 15th century jewelled clasp or buckle or a collection of jewels.
nyefles see nifels.
O
orphrey 13th century onwards term for an item richly embroidered with gold thread, especially decorating the borders of garments. Later it came to mean narrow strips of any kind of embroidery, such as orphreys of blue, red and green, also plain velvet.
orfray see orphrey
orfrey see orphrey
orle 14th century border of fur.
ouch 13th to 15th century jewelled clasp or buckle or a collection of jewels.
ourle 13th century border of fur.
overslop 950 to end of 14th century term for a gown, stole, cassock or surplice.
P
paltock 14th to mid 15th century short under jacket to which sleeves and hose could be attached. Later known as the pourpoint
paltok see paltock
parti-coloured hose mid 14th to mid 15th century. Hose of differing colours worn together, one of each on a leg.
parti-coloured gown or tunic constructed in two contrasting colours, the colours reversed on facing panels. Very popular in heraldic garments. Occasionally one side may be patterened or striped.
pattens 14th to mid 19th century overshoe to keep the shoe above the dirt. Usually wooden or cork soled with straps of leather.
paultock see paltock
pautener medieval name for the bag hanging fro a girdle.
pavade dagger with a sharp blade
peer's mantle circular cloak to wear with parlimentary robes.
peer's robes parlimentary robes- houpeland-style.
pelicon full, fur-lined, loose outer garment
pelisse outer garment lined in fur or sometimes made of leather for outdoor wear
pelisson 14th to early 16th century furred over-gown. see pelicon, pilch
pellard see houppelande
pellotes 1244 similar to a sideless surcote with a high neck and deep cut armholes.
peplum a head veil
petticotte
petticoat small coat worn under the longer coat or gown at the end of the 15th century
phrygian cap 9th to end of 12th century. Common pointed cap with the apex turned over slightly towards the front.
pianelles 14th century backless leather slippers with thick soles
pikes 1395 to 1410 then 1460 to 1480. Long pointy-toed shoes known by the French as poulaines and the English as crackows. Worn by all classes, but especially the fashionable.
pilch fur-lined garment, also a woolen or leather garment of unspecified design
pinson 14th - 16th century light, indoor shoe, often furred.
placcard see plackard
placcate see plackard
plackard 14th century womens front panel or stomacher portion of a sideless surcote, often embroidered or trimmed with fur.
placart see plackard
plastron furred or jewelled band circling the neck and hanging in a band down the front used to secure the sideless gown by hooks to the cotehardie.
points laces used to fasten parts of a costume together
poky sleeve see bagpipe sleeve
pouch 12th to early 16th century bag or wallett slung fromt eh girdle or attached to the belt. A knife or dagger may be tucked into the supporting strap.
poulain, poulaine 1395 to 1410 then 1460 to 1480. A French term for piked shoes originally from Poland. Term rarely used in England, instead crackows.
pourpoint formerly known as the paltock. Short under jacket to which sleeves and hose could be attached. Later forms were padded at the chest.
poynts see points
pullayne see piked shoes
punge medieval purse
purse medieval onwards. At first a pouch, but from 14th century onwards, small drawstring pocket often square with three tassels- one in each bottom corner and one between them.
Q
quafe see coif
quintise similar to a tabard, often dagged, worn over a robe.
quoif see coif
R
ramshorn hairdressing
reticulated headdress developed from the crespine or caul.
revers 14th century onwards facings or borderings to a garment. Turned back edge.
revelins heavy shoes of undressed leather worn by English peasants
riband 14th & 15th century border of a garment.
rilling see riveling
riveling 12th to 14th century shoe of raw hide with the hair on the outside.
robe pre 1375 a man's matching set- often 5 items of the one colour and fabric.
rochet see rocket
rocket 14th & 15th centuries. A woman's gown, usually white linen.
roget see rocket
roket see rocket
S
sandal pre-medieval onwards. Shoe made of a sole and straps arranged over the foot.
sagum late 8th century woolen cloak, later a garment
Saxon embroidery see English Work.
sclavyn late 13th century to 15th century pilgrim's mantle
sclavine see sclavin
scrip medieval pouch or wallet.
seint medieval name for a girdle.
sendall see cendall
sherte shirt, buttoned and sometimes with needlework.
shirt early medieval on. Man's undermost garment worn next to the skin.
sideless surcote 1360 to 1500 Low neckes and sleeveless and long over-garment surcote deeply cut around armholes to reveal the kyrtle underneath- often fur trimmed and embellished with jewelled band or jewelled bottons
slavin late 13th to end of 15th century pilgrim's mantle.
sleeveless surcote see sideless surcote or surcote.
smock late 13th to 17th century Anglo-Saxon term for chemise. Women's undermost garment worn next to the skin. Fashionable smocks were often embroidered in gold or coloured silks.
socks 8th century onwards. A short stocking worn with footless hose or under hose.
steeple hennin tall, pointed, conical headdress popular in the 15th century. Secured to a coif and worn with a veil. see also hennin.
streapeles leggings worn from knee to ankle; breeches
suckeny see surkney
super-cotehardie later edition of the surcote
supertotus medieval sleeved and hooded cloak worn by travellers.
supertunic 9th to end of 14th century, usually called a surcoat or surcote
surcoat see surcote
surcote 9th to 14th century tunic worn by both sexes, starting as a rectangular piece of fabric having a slit at the top for the head and slits for the sleeves. Then becoming the T-tunic which may have had wide sleeves at the wrist. Later, it became more shaped and eventually cut away to become the sideless surcote, then the super-cotehardie.
surkney medieval coarse, loose woolen frock worn by carters and shepherds.
swaddling bands medieval to end of 18th century long bandages for wrapping around the body and limbs of an infant giving it the appearance of a mummy.
T
tabard late 13th century and 14th century outer garment- circular, short mantle often ceremonial and heraldic.
tabbard see tabard
tasseaux circular or square ornaments on mantle where the cord goes.
temples see templers
templers 1. late 13th to end of 14th century decorative cauls of network or linen covering thick plaits of hair, generally artifically enlarged and arranged on each side of the head above the temples. Worn with a veil.
templers 2. first half of 15th century ornamental bosses of goldsmithery or fine needlwork worn over the temples to enclose the hair. Supported by a fillet above the forehead.Often very elaborate and worn with a veil. (pictured)
templettes see templers
tippet pendant-like streamer from the hood or around the arm made of cloth or fur. see liripipe.
tire name used in England for tall, conical headware made on a silver wire frame. As a foundation they used a bonnet or wimple. Usually made with gems and pearls and very fragile, for single use. Also called atour by the French.
trousers 10th-12th century leg coverings, loose, worn by peasants in England.
tressour 14th century chaplet of goldsmithry or material worn on the head.
tunic, tunica 9th to early 14th century men's clothing, fitted at the shoulders, widening at the hips. Similar to women's kyrtle. The hem reaches to the upper thigh. Sleeves were varied- fitted at the forearm, or mutton sleeve, most popularly bat-wing. The tunic became shorter amongst fashionable persons. Also cote.
U
V
vamp 14th century onwards. Upper front part of shoe.
veil medieval onwards, often worn with a wimple. see coverchief.
vexillum
W
wambais see gambeson
wambeys see gambeson
wimple late 12th to mid-14th century. A long veil covering the neck and often the chin, popular in the 13th century and onwards. Usually of fine white linen or silk. Worn with a veil or fillet or both. Similar to nun's wimples of today.
XYZ
MENS CLOTHING GLOSSARY
BALDRIC fabric/leather band worn diagonally across chest and back
BARMCLOTH Leather apron
BOMBAST 16th c. padding of cotton or rags used to stuff garment linings
BREECHES
BRAES breeches
PETIT-Drap breeches
PANTALOON combined stocking and breeches
SLOP-HOSE sailor's breeches
TRUNK HOSE 15TH c. style breeches to show off legs with padded ring from waist to which long netherstocks were sewn
VENETIANS buttoned/tied in concealed front opening with breeches fastened at knee separate from nether stocks, codpiece not worn.
BRAGUETTE cod piece
BRAYE triangle fabric covering opening of mens breeches
BRANC smock
BROIGNE jerkin
BUFLE boat of buff leather
BURNOOSE upper garment/shirt with a hood attached worn by Arabs and Moors
BUSKIN footed leggings with thick soles made of leather and embroidered
CAPES/COATS
BALANDRAS 12th century hooded rain cape
BARRETE round wool/felt hat
CHAMATRE 15th century long wide fur-lined braided coat
CYCLAS short cape-like cloak worn by both men and women
HOOD & Gorget covered shoulders and head
MANTLE loose, sleeveless cloak or cape
POUR POINT 13th c. ceremonial short coat
CAPS/Hoods
BARRETTE round wool/felt hat
BIGGIN cap men wore to bed which tied under the chin with laces or ribbon
BIRETTA soft skull cap
CALE linen skull cap
CHAPERONE 15th c. headdress for men
LIRIPIPE hat worn to one side with very long tail worn around neck
CARILLE flared collar worn up to the ears
CORDUROU cotton or silk velvet with raided ridges or Wales
COTEHARDIE 14th c. masculine short tunic with long or half sleeves
CROSS-GARTERING linen strips wound round the braies to hold them in position
DOUBLET vest or short tunic padded and fitted
FOOTWEAR
CALIGA Roman leather shoe
CAMPAGUS Byzantine leather boot
DUCKBILL 15th c. wide pointed toes
GALOSHES wooden soled shoes with leather straps to protect shoes from dirt
GALLIOCHIOS wooden soled shoes with leather straps
HOUSEAUX/Krackows tall, leather boots, open or extended toe
PANNOS de CANNABIUM canvas shoes
PANTOFFLE 16th c. overshoe slipped on with no back, became slippers
PATTERN wood strapped under footwear to protect it in wet conditions
POULAINE/Krackows extended/exaggerated length at the toes termed
PIGACHES 11th c. shoes with long pointed toes
SOLERS leather/Fabric foot wear/slippers
GARTERS band of wool/cotton for knee breeches
GIBECIERE fabric/leather pouch attached to girdle, next to dagger
HAINCELIN short houppelande with embroidered sleeves
HOOD & GORGET covered shoulders and head
TIPPET hoods long point or Coteharde’s long sleeve
JACKET close fitting upper body garment
NETHERSTOCKS hose
POINTS metal laces for attaching hose to doublet
Women's Clothing GLOSSARY
AGRAFFE/Agrafe large brooch for fastening cloak or robe
FERMAIL small brooch
FIBULA ornamental brooch or clasp
BODICE close fitting upper part of a woman's dress or laced vest
BUM-BARREL/BUM-ROLLER/ WAIST BOLSTER padded roll tied around the waist and worn under the skirt, to hold it out.
BURNOOSE combination hood and cloak worn by women
CAFTAN long sleeved unbelted outer garment of knee length
CAMISE/Chainse/Chemise long linen undergarment, worn under dress
CAPS
AMICE square of line, folded diagonally, worn about head and shoulders
BIRETTA soft skull cap
CALE linen skull cap
CAUL silk skull cap worn alone or under a hat, often by maidens
CHAPLET wreath of leave/flowers or circlet with gems holding veil onto head
CRESPIN/Creppin linen cap
ESTRAIN straw hat
SNOOD netlike bag worn at the back of head to hold hair
SPODIC fur trimmed hat
TORQUE/ Coif small cap
CORSET closely fitting under bodice
COTEHARDIE 14th c. used for feminine long gowns
COTTERON short peasant smock
FALSE SLEEVES falling from lower part of garments sleeves
FLUGEL long ground trailing sleeves
FARTHINGALE 16th c. canvas/linen petticoat with whalebone hoops
FOREPART decorated underskirt revealed through the inverted-V opening in the front of a skirt.
GIT gown
GORGIAS gauze covering a woman’s cleavage
HAIR PIN long metal pin used to hold the hair in place
HEADDRESS
BARBETTE head band/veil worn under chin, over ears and head
BEGUIN/FLEMISH HOOD linen rectangle folded in headdress caught at neck
CHAPLET circlet, twisted, padded and decorate, veil/ribbons hang from it
CIRCLET headdress of metal, cover w cloth/ribbon/flowers etc
CORNALIA pointed stiff veil or headdress
CORONETTE 2 points headdress
COVERCHIEF headdress piled or wound, sometimes fastened beneath chin
FILLET stiff linen headdress
FRENCH HOOD 15th c. bonnet on stiff frame and worn far back on the head
FRET headdress made of gold or silver trellis
GARGET fabric wound around head part of a chaperone
HEAD RAIL oblong linen/cotton headdress
HUVE projecting headdress of many folds
LIRIPIPE lengthened peak of the medieval hood
ORALIA headdress with two blue stripes
TIARA crown like headdress of jewels, flowers, etc
TOURET tall headdress
VOLET veil worn at back of head
WIMPLE/Guimp headdress framing face
HOUPELANDE 15th c. nobility at court, or 14th c. Germany
HOUSSE long wide shawl, fastened at breast, fur trimmed at hem and neck
JERINET padded jacket
LETTICE species of fur of pale gray
MANCHESS long flowing sleeves
NIGHT RAIL garment wealthy women slept in though nude was more common
PELICON f ur-lined over tunic
PIPKIN 15th c. taffeta hat trimmed with ostrich feathers and decorated with jewels
PLASTRON fur front of the sideless surcoat worn by medieval ladies
ROC woman’s over garments
SHERTE undergarment of white linen
SNUFKIN/Snoskyn muff of cloth/fur, smaller ones hung from a woman's
STOMACHER front panel of decorative fabric worn on top of bodice ending in point
SUCKENIE 13th c. German unbelted long, sleeveless over dress
SUPERTUNIC f ull circle, sleeved over garment, belted at waist
TEMPLET metal ornament for rolling hair above ears
TIPPET streamer length sleeves hanging from elbow of tunic/gown, or short shoulder cape for women
CLOTHING GLOSSARY
AUMONIERE drawstring bag/purse/pouch of fabric
BATTLEDORE wood/stone cloth beater
CABRILLE flared collar worn up to the ears
CLOAKS/CAPES/COATS
CABAN Arabic coat of wide sleeves
CHAMATRE 15th century long wide fur-lined braided coat
CYCLAS short cape-like cloak worn by both men and women
GREAT COAT short, loosely fitting, full sleeved outer garment
PALETOT short coat
PELISSE long sleeved fur-lined cloak
CLOAK semi-circular, long, cord tied at neck or with broach
DOGLINE venetian aristocratic fashion for men and women
EMBROIDERY
BARGELLO WORK variety of embroidery/needlework
BEADING embellishment/trim on clothing
BILIMENTS borders of silk/velvet with gold or jewels attached
DISTAFF vertical stick to hold wool from where the thread is drawn
DORSAL embroidered/tapestry covering a chair
EMBROIDERY embellishment of fabric by stitching
HOOPS to hold cloth as you stitch
NEEDLED wood, metal, ivory used to sew
STOMPWORK embroidered technique using knots
TAPESTRY wool that is hand woven on a loom
TAWDRY lace work
EYEGLASSES 14th c. corrective lens to correct damaged vision
FLAXEN pale-yellow or straw-colored
FOOTWEAR
ESCHAPINS flat shoes, slashed on top
GALLIOCHIOS wooden soled shoes with leather straps
HOUSEAUX knee to calk thick leather boots
LATCHET strap used to fasten a shoe or clog
PANNOS de XANNABIUM canvas shoes
PANTOFFLE 16th c. overshoe slipped on with no back, became slippers
PIGACHES 11th c. shoes with long pointed toes
SOLERS leather/Fabric foot wear/slippers
GARDEROBE closet, wardrobe for clothes
GARNEMENT garment
GARTERS band of wool/cotton for knee breeches
GIBECIERE fabric/leather pouch attached to girdle, next to dagger
GIRDLE ornamental belt for both sexes
GLOVE/Gauntlet 12th c. hand covering
MITON fingerless glove for heavy work
HAINCELIN short houpelande with embroidered sleeves
HOSE cotton/wool stockings gartered at the knee
HOUSEAUX knee to calf thick leather boots
HOUSSE wide shawl trimmed with fur
MERCHANTS
FRIPPER dealer in frippery, or old clothes
MERCER dealer in cloth and fabrics
MAUNCHE sleeve of a lady's dress
PANNUS garment made with skins
PANTALOON combined stocking and breeches
PINNER one who made straight wire pins to hold ladies gowns together
PUNCH tool used for metal decoration
REBRA garments revers
ROBE meaning to dress, all components
RUFF 15th c. circular collar of a starched crimped/pleated frill
SABAL sleeveless gown or cloak
POUCHES
GYPCIERE French hanging purse/pouch attached to girdle originally for hawking
SLEEVES
MANCHET showing through slashed half-sleeves of top garment
MAUNCHE sleeve of a lady's dress shown in a stylized manner
PICADILS scalloped or tabbed edge at the neck and armhole.
SLASHINGS small openings cut in garments
TIPPET pendant streamer from hood/sleeve also a shoulder cape.
SOTTANA 12th c. Italian undergone/tunic
UNDERGARMENTS smock/tunic/ chemise
UNISEX CLOTHING
BLIAUD long over-tunic belted at waist, slit at sides worn by peasants/soldiers
BLIANT resembles a surcoat
BONGRACE 15th c. flat, square cap with a short flap of velvet on each side
CAPA 11th c. short silk hooded cap worn by both men & women.
CAPUCHON/Chape universal hooded cloak long or short.
CASSOCK worn loose, hip-length coat with a small collar or hood.
CYCLAS short cape-like cloak worn by both men and women.
GABARDINE long, loose overcoat with hanging sleeves.
GARDCORP outdoor garment worn by men and women.
GERTRUDE 13th c. long unisex tunic
GIRDLE ornamental belt for both sexes
HOUPELANDE 14th c. noble’s dagged sleeved garment, later German surcoat
KIRTLE tunic
MANDILION 15th c. thigh-length overcoat, standup collar, long sleeves
WAISTCOAT 14th c. quilted undergarment with breeches attached, or woman's dressing jacket
Cyclas 1.Cloak with round cut, decorated with fur around the neckline. 2. coat armour in the thirteenth century, the same as the surcotte.
doublet or later the gypon or gipon
chaperon - During this century, the chaperon made a transformation from being a utilitarian hood with a small cape to becoming a complicated and fashionable hat worn by the wealthy in town settings. This came when they began to be worn with the opening for the face placed instead on the top of the head.
dagging - jagged edge of materialcut into a decorative pattern
doublet/wams (germ.)- Short overgarment, a variation of the pourpoint. Originally it was worn under the pourpoint, and could be cut with or without sleeves
DOUBLET: quilted garment, stuffed with cotton or waste material, stitched and worn under a hauberk.
Doublet's (Gipon's, Pourpoint's, Gambeson') Doublet's were worn by men between the fourteenth and seventeenth century.In the fourteenth and Fifteenth centuries they were known as gipon's (jupon's)and pourpoint. They were derived from the gambeson that was a thick paddedgarment worn as body armour or under a mail shirt or hauberk. The giponwas a high necked hip or waist length tunic of the fourteenth centuries.The pourpoint of the late fourteenth and early fifteenth centuries wassquare necked with a knee length skirt.
Gambeson A loose shirt worn under the mail hauberk in the thirteenth century, and in the beginning of the fourteenth. Later it was replaced by the houqueton/aketon.
GAMBESON: padded garment worn under hauberk; also know as a gibbon, pourpoint or doublet.
GIPON or GIPPON: a type of doublet made of padded, quilted material; in 14th century, same as a doublet.
GONELLE or GONNE: long tunic worn by knights.
Hérigaut A coat-like garment, cut in front, with long, loose sleeves, which had two-three stripes around their armhole, made of different coloured cloth.
Houce A long cloak, derived from the thirteenth-century garnache. It was often furred and had two characteristically "tongues" of a different coloured cloth at the neck.
Hose (stockings or leggings, Fr Chausses, late Lat. calcei, calceamenta) are coverings for the legs, in England in the C17 it came to mean stocking, but in Germany retained the meaning of breeches or trousers, as defined by Dorothy Hartley in Medieval Costume and how to create it, pg 32
Parti-Colored.—The cote-hardie and tights were parti-colored, that is, half the body was dressed in one color, the other half in another; frequently both colors appeared in stripes on one leg. The cote-hardie, always belted at the waist, where a pouch containing a dagger dangled, was of various lengths; a lappet hung from the arm. Long and short capes edged and collared with fur were buttoned at the neck.
Pourpoint/wams (germ.) Originally a coat armour, substituting in this function the cotte d'armes for a while in the fourteenth century. it was tight, fitting, cut without sleeves and was shorter than the hauberk worn under it. Later on several other variations of it hasd developed, no longer worn as coat armours.
The Dagged Fashion.—This (also known as foliated) appeared on all garments in 1346 and was promptly condemned by the clergy. These "dagges" were made by cutting away the material of the garment to form leaves, etc., about its edges.
The Liripipe.—The peak of the hood grew so long that it hung to the floor, requiring knots to be tied in it. This appendage became known as the "liripipe" and was often wound about the head with the end tucked in, or draped across the shoulders.
A kirtle is a tunic-like garment worn by men and women in the Middle Ages or, later, a one-piece garment worn by women from the later Middle Ages into the Baroque period.
Vampy - the upper part of a shoe covering the instep and toes
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